Reflecting on Ruskin’s Good Looking!

This blog, about her exhibition at Brantwood, ‘Ruskin’s Good Looking!’ is written by Dr Sarah Casey, Senior Lecturer in Drawing and Installation at Lancaster Institute for the Contemporary Arts, Lancaster University

All over the country, indeed all over the world, we are currently celebrating Ruskin’s birth and reflecting on his legacy for the 21st century and beyond. This year, 20th February marked 200 years since Ruskin’s christening. The christening gown worn by the infant Ruskin on that day is one of several garments belonging to Ruskin now on display at Brantwood as part of the exhibition Ruskin’s Good Looking!, which celebrated its opening on 24th February. This event is the culmination of a two-year Lancaster University research project, examining Ruskin’s clothes through drawing. The project included testing ideas in The Ruskin’s 2018 seminar series (which took its title from this project, Ruskin’s Good Looking!) and public drawing workshops as part of the Being Human festival 2018.[1] The questions driving this activity are: What is it about drawing that continues to make it a valuable tool of investigation in fields ranging from natural history, to medicine, archaeology and fashion? How might Ruskin’s ideas about drawing be applied in the 21st century to develop new contemporary approaches to object based research?

Over the past two years I have had the extraordinary privilege to get up close and intimate with Ruskin’s clothing in the Brantwood collection and at nearby Keswick Museum. The research was based on the premise of using Ruskin’s belief in drawing as a means of seeing the world – a view he clearly expressed in The Elements of Drawing (1857): “I believe that the sight is a more important thing than the drawing; and I would rather teach drawing that my pupils learn to love Nature, than teach the looking at nature that they may learn to draw.” Drawing requires us to look and this helps us to understand.  I applied this view to his own clothing.

Drawing mapping  the garments

The first stage was simple – look, look again, and draw what you see. Using this elementary method, I made 1:1 scale pencil drawings  of each garment on graph paper. I called these garment maps. Reflecting on the process, I came to realise a parallel with Ruskin’s methods of ‘true topology’, delineating what is observed in the landscape leaving ‘no stone unturned’ … although in my drawings, the landscape was the more intimate terrain of personal clothing. This was to reveal nuances in the clothing’s construction that might be read as fingerprint of Ruskin’s specific physiology. Artist Louise Bourgeois has described clothing as being like an envelope of a person, bearing the imprint of their body, a history so clear she calls garments ‘road signs’ to the past.[2]

 

Laundry mark JR 12 95
Laundry mark JR 12 95

These ‘road signs’ are evident if we know how to look. Close looking through drawing is a method promoted by curator and ‘dress detective’ Ingrid Mida from Ryerson University, Toronto who visited Brantwood with me in April 2018 to examine the garments.[3] This provided valuable specialist insight into their use and wear. It was a magical moment when Ingrid first unfolded the shirt to find the laundry mark JR 12 95, which, as she writes in her catalogue essay, dates the shirt to December 1895, towards the end of Ruskin’s life.[4]

 

An equally exciting moment was when, studying the seams and crevices of a tailcoat, I discovered a tailors label marked ‘ John Ruskin Esq.’ affirming that the garment was indeed Ruskin’s and its provenance from his tailor (Stultz Wain & Co. 10 Clifford St London, for those of you interested).

 

Label in Ruskin's clothes
Label in Ruskin’s clothes

From these intense observational studies, I went on to make a series of wax drawings of the garments. Each garment map was transcribed onto a sheet of Japanese paper soaked in wax, using a simple dressmakers pin. The white marks that are visible are made by nothing more than the pressure of touching the surface.

 

Drawing of christening gown
Drawing of Ruskin’s christening gown

Like breath, or memory, the drawings have a fragile existence and will literally melt away if exposed to heat. As Anuradha Chatterjee’s catalogue explains, Ruskin believed clothing to reflect a person’s soul.[5] The wax drawings embrace this idea, taking on a spectral quality that evokes the uncanny sense of absent presence that is felt when examining a person’s clothes and looking into the past.  As Ruskin said  drawing enables us “to preserve something like a true image of beautiful things that pass away, or which you must yourself leave.”[6]

Exhibition at Brantwood
Exhibition at Brantwood

So, if you’re near Brantwood between now and 7th April, do take a look before they disappear…

To find out more about how this Ruskinian approach to drawing might benefit research in the 21st century, look out for Drawing Investigations: graphic relationships with science, culture and environment by Sarah Casey and Gerry Davies due for publication by Bloomsbury later this year.

 

[1] Sponsored by AHRC, the British Academy and Institute of Advanced Studies, University of London

[2] Louise Bourgeois in Marie Laure Bernadac, Louise Bourgeois, Paris: Flammarion, 2006, p.155.

[3] Supported by a grant from the Arts Council and British Council Artist International Development Fund.

[4] Ingrid Mida ‘A portrait of John Ruskin through his clothes’ in S. Casey (ed.) Ruskin’s Good Looking! (Lancaster University and Brantwood, 2019), p.13.

[5] Anuradha Chatterjee ‘Wearing the Soul John Ruskin’s theory of ideal dress’ in S. Casey (ed.) Ruskin’s Good Looking! (Lancaster University and Brantwood, 2019), pp.16-19.

[6] John Ruskin Elements of Drawing (1857). Letter 1, On First Practice.

Where Ruskin was born

Our third blog is by Francis O’Gorman, Saintsbury Professor of English Literature, University of Edinburgh; Honorary Visiting Professor, Ruskin Library and Research Centre, Lancaster University and Chairman of the Ruskin Society.

I’m a habitual visitor of graves. Most particularly, of the graves of writers and musicians. Because as a critic I am always writing about the actuality of an author—not as a mere ‘function’ of a text but as a once living and complex human being—graves have a particular significance. The material reality of an author is affirmed in some genuine, touchable way: there he or she is, on this spot, beneath this stone, beneath this grass. It have found it peculiarly moving to visit, for instance, Trollope’s grave and Wilkie Collins’s at Kensal Green;

Wilkie Collins GraveWilkie Collins’s grave at Kensal Green Cemetery, the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, August 2015, author’s photograph.

the Brontës at Haworth and Scarborough; Clough and Elizabeth Barrett Browning in Florence. Borrowing a term from Catholic Christianity, George Steiner thinks of the ‘real presence’ of creative artists behind their work. For me, what enhances that felt experience in reading is knowing where, and having visited, the final resting place.

But it isn’t only graves. It is also, far more cheerfully, birthplaces. Of course, there is only memory here, not mortal remains. But starting places, the location of first memories, have a role in helping one grasp the shape of an author’s life. I have just, for instance, been to Higher Bockhampton to see—for the first time since the summer of 1976—the Hardys’ beautifully cared-for cottage where their baby, Thomas, was born on 2 June 1840.

Hardy's birthplace

Hardy’s birthplace, Higher Bockhampton, Dorset, July 2018, author’s photograph.

Ruskin, as everyone knows, is buried in St Andrew’s Churchyard, Coniston, under W.G.  Collingwood’s unRuskinian Celtic cross made from local slate. He is still among the hills, which he had loved since infancy. But Ruskin’s birthplace has suffered far more than Hardy’s. Anthony Trollope’s birthplace was demolished by the University of London in the 1930s and its location is now under the car-park of Senate House, off Russell Square.

Senate House

 

Charles Holden’s Senate House for the University of London (1932-7), on top of the site of Trollope’s birthplace. Image available through Creative Commons, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senate_House,_London#/media/File:Senate_House,_University_of_London.jpg

 

 

Just a few hundred metres away, Ruskin’s birthplace has also vanished.

As we all know, Ruskin was born on 8 February 1819 in 54 Hunter Street, Brunswick Square. And as we all also know, the house no longer stands. It was one of those demolished to make way for the construction of Patrick Hodgkinson’s Brunswick Centre, a Modernist shopping and residential complex. The Brunswick is still there, both admired and disliked.

Brunswick Centre

The Brunswick Centre, on the site of Ruskin’s birth which was almost exactly half-way between the front of the ambulance and the ‘lollipop’ crossing signal. Image available through Creative Commons,  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brunswick_Centre#/media/File:Brunswick_Centre_(4136275375).jpg

54 Hunter Street54 Hunter Street (note the plaque marking Ruskin’s birthplace). Online uncopyrighted image.

But there has been a long-standing effort, led by Dr James S. Dearden MBE, and now taken up by me, to mark the spot of Ruskin’s birth with a blue plaque or some other form of lasting commemoration. Jim has been able to retain a memory of exactly where the spot is, which is a blessing. He visited the house, then in an almost derelict state, on 1 January 1969, in the company, as it happens, of Spike Milligan, shortly before 54 Hunter Street was pulled down.

Jim photographed some of the property and has written several times giving more details of his visit. When the house was, shortly afterwards, demolished, what was immediately put in its place was the entrance to an underground carpark that served the residents of the Brunswick Centre. But that has now gone too. All that stands of any visible Ruskinian interest are the two remaining unaltered houses of Hunter Street (nos. 3 and 4) that were once directly opposite number 54. In the opening chapter of Praeterita (1885-9), Ruskin remarks that as a child he counted the bricks of the ‘opposite houses’ (Library Edition, xxxv.21).You can still do that in person or via Google Street View. https://mapstreetview.com/#uod2l_-2n26_1h.5_5f43 will take you straight there.

Let’s hope we can mark the location of this lost house permanently. There are other ‘sites’, after all, which have blue plaques near-by, not least that of Dickens’s Tavistock House, more or less round the corner, where the novelist lived from 1851 to 1860. The site of John Ruskin’s birthplace has every reason to be remembered. I hope I can complete what Jim has started.

Francis O’Gorman
Saintsbury Professor of English Literature, University of Edinburgh
Honorary Visiting Professor, Ruskin Library and Research Centre, Lancaster University
Chairman of the Ruskin Society

Generating a Museum of the Near Future

Our second blog is by Dr Joanna Taylor, Presidential Academic Fellow in Digital Humanities at The University of Manchester.

In March 1991, shortly after Lancaster University had launched their campaign to acquire the Whitehouse Collection of Ruskiniana, the eminent Victorianist Dinah Birch offered a suggestion as to why John Ruskin – one of the most important and wide-ranging thinkers of the nineteenth century – had lapsed into obscurity. She thought that Ruskin’s interdisciplinarity was a barrier for the modern reader: ‘his influence,’ she wrote, both then and now, ‘was fragmented by the bewildering range of subjects he undertook to write about’.

Page from Ruskin’s diary (MS12)

The result, in Britain at least, was that Ruskin seemed ‘tangential’ to a wide range of subjects: art historians, political economists, literary scholars, historians, geologists, biologists, ecologists and sociologists could all claim Ruskin as one of their own with equal felicity, but no one discipline could aspire to a complete understanding of Ruskin’s polymathematical thought. As Birch concluded, Ruskin’s writing is:

rooted in the widest definitions of culture. To be read fully, the texts call for knowledge of Greek literature and mythology, Medieval iconography, Milton, 18th-century fiction, the Bible, geology, Italian history, botany, Walter Scott and Dickens, and a very great deal else besides. They ask to be studied on their own terms. There will never be many who are in a position to rise to the challenge of interdisciplinarity on quite that scale. (‘Interdisciplinarity’, London Review of Books 13.12 (1991), https://www.lrb.co.uk/v13/n12/dinah-birch/interdisciplinarity).

Birch is right that, today, it would be a rare lone scholar who could match the breadth and scale of Ruskin’s knowledge. But what was a stumbling block for the twentieth-century model of lone-wolf scholarship – particularly in the humanities – might become an enabling force in more recent approaches that emphasise interdisciplinary collaboration.

Brantwood

So the Lancaster University Away Day at Brantwood, Ruskin’s home from 1870 until his death in 1900, discovered. This event aimed to facilitate precisely the kind of ambitious cross-disciplinary environment needed for the sort of scholarship that can begin to rediscover Ruskin for a new era. With invited speakers and attendees from the University’s principal research centres – including Digital Humanities, Material Sciences, Data Sciences and Social Futures – the Away Day demonstrated Ruskin’s potential to offer an intellectual bridge between radically different interests.

The morning began with an introduction by the Director of The Ruskin, Professor Sandra Kemp. Kemp introduced Ruskin as a figurehead for the Library’s ambition to be a ‘museum of the near future’. Kemp asked what the purpose of a collection of materials – a collection, moreover, that surpasses any other for a single author – is in a campus environment. As she suggested, when understood as the backbone of a forward-looking museum, the Collection offers the basis for using Ruskinian materials and thinking as a springboard for addressing ongoing social, cultural and environmental issues. If we re-interpret the Collection as an active, malleable archive, she indicated, it becomes a valuable resource for research, teaching and public-facing exchange.

Ruskin Away Day at Brantwood

The following talks all, in different ways, spoke to this vision of a dynamic Collection that catalyses exciting new research in each University faculty. Dr Andrew Tate (Reader in Literature, Religion and Aesthetics) demonstrated how forward-looking interpretations of Ruskin might work in future exhibitions at the library. Professor Judith Mottram (Director of Lancaster Institute for the Contemporary Arts) suggested how Ruskinian thinking could develop creative practice as research that re-evaluates art, not as illustration, but as an active force in engaging diverse publics in socio-cultural, political and academic agendas. Professor Beth Harland’s talk revealed how such a re-evaluation could facilitate creative responses to Ruskin’s work and his wider contemporary relevance that, she suggested, are based on the ‘critical production of knowledge’. She uncovered Ruskin’s interests in interactive thinking by interrogating what role ‘conceptual relationships’ might play in future research at Lancaster.

Between these talks, each group – each of which focused on a different research agenda (Digital Humanities, Material Sciences, Social Futures and Data Science) – reflected on how Ruskin or Ruskinian thinking might guide future collaborative endeavours and lead to new research areas. Ruskin’s interests in work, memory, sensation and the details of the world around him offered rich starting points for frequently surprising conversations that began to uncover the power of Ruskin’s thought for developing innovative research questions.

Brantwood, the site of – among other things – Ruskin’s infamous meeting with Darwin, offered the ideal location for this cross-disciplinary brainstorming. A guided walk around the house and grounds with the museum’s Director, Howard Hull, consolidated the morning’s communal discoveries of interlinked research interests. Ruskin’s allegorical garden, known as the Zig-Zaggy, was a particular highlight. This material re-imagining of Dante’s Purgatorial Mount, based on one of Ruskin’s own designs, guides the visitor up the fellside along a series of themed terraces until they reach ‘Paradise’s’ unparalleled view across Coniston lake to the fells beyond.

John Ruskin, Path at Brantwood, Ruskin Foundation (Ruskin Library, Lancaster University)

The garden offered a focal point for our final list of take-aways from the day. More than anything, this re-imagining of an alternative type of Ruskin text had indicated to everyone present the scope for playful (re-)interpretations of Ruskin. It seemed to encapsulate the day’s aim of taking Ruskin out of dusty volumes on dark library shelves, and into the real, twenty-first century landscape.

The garden consolidated what the rest of the day had implied: that Ruskinian thought – as well as his specific works – might offer creative opportunities for new kinds of research that linked ordinarily disparate parts of the University, as will be showcased in The Ruskin’s launch exhibition on 25 September. What the Away Day ultimately demonstrated is that the man George Eliot called ‘a prophet for his generation’ is also deeply prescient for our own.

Brantwood garden view

The Ruskin: Museum of the Near Future

This first blog is by The Ruskin’s Director, Professor Sandra Kemp:

John Ruskin’s 200th birthday is just two weeks away. In the run-up to the day, we are pleased to be launching our new blog and website at Lancaster University.

Ruskin’s bicentenary year will be a momentous one. Exhibitions, activities and events celebrating the life and works of this epoch-defining writer, artist, social thinker and environmentalist will be taking place across the UK and internationally over the next twelve months. You can follow the programme of bicentenary events at www.ruskin200.com

Here at Lancaster we are already on count-down to our own bicentenary exhibition, which is timed to coincide with the official launch of The Ruskin on 25th September 2019.

TThe Ruskin by night © Peter Durant
The Ruskin – Library, Museum and Research Centre © Peter Durant

For regular visitors to The Ruskin, we appreciate your patience during this period of refurbishment and it is great to welcome you back in person and online. Over the past year, the Ruskin Library, which currently houses the world-leading collection of Ruskin’s works, has been given an external facelift and upgraded, updated and refitted internally to transform the reading rooms and galleries. The Ruskin brings together the Ruskin Library, Museum, and Research Centre within the McCormac’s award-winning building. Our new programme explores how Ruskin’s epoch defining ideas can unlock urgent current and future social, cultural and environmental issues.

Tolstoy wrote of Ruskin that ‘He was one of those rare men who thinks … what everyone will think and say in the future’. Our launch exhibition – Ruskin: Museum of the Near Future – will radically expand on this insight by exploring the importance of Ruskin’s thinking about what it means to be human in an age of technology to some of the most pressing challenges of our own time. Ruskin understood how the future is embedded in the here and now. As his personal motto ‘To-day’ affirms, he was profoundly aware of how the lives we lead in the present set the conditions of the world to come.

John Ruskin, Peacock and Falcon Feathers, 1873
John Ruskin, Peacock and Falcon Feathers, 1873

In the coming months our blogs, events, exhibitions and research projects will draw on the thousands of Ruskin’s paintings and drawings, books and manuscripts, prints and photographs in our collection to promote debate across the arts and sciences and investigate culture and heritage, landscape and the environment. In relaunching the website, we have made more of Ruskin’s works available online and we’ve started an ambitious programme of digitisation.  We’ll be blogging regularly and you can also follow us on Twitter and Instagram. We’d welcome your ideas and suggestions for our programmes.

Meanwhile, on Thursday 7th February, the eve of Ruskin’s birth, in Lancaster University’s Great Hall, ‘Ruskin’s Dreams’, a concerto by Lake District composer Edward Cowie, will be performed by performed by the BBC Philharmonic, with clarinettist Julian Bliss.

http://www.lancaster.ac.uk/the-ruskin
Open 10.00–16:00 weekdays